(I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. such high fuel pressure. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Good luck! I'll give the ". check out the. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? One of them might be faulty. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. check out the. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. Seems to be working. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. Nice to meet you. Clearly, something is changing. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. That is the first thing you must find. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Any ideas here? The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Others might require 60 RPM. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at So the issue Im having is low idle. Part# 538-13. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. That is not the way to go. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Interesting question. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. You could go either way.. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. They tell you to ask call Holley. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. My Sniper is 99% great! If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. All times are GMT-6. Please help. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the Am I missing something. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Good Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. All times are GMT-6. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. It runs perfectly fine other wise. I can get it to fire up on the Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to
Kind of cuts into forum time. That is the only way to fly. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Is there away to lean the idle out? These problems will go away when you do that. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Reducing that a bit will help. Please advise. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. Hello I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. If you use your handheld to go here: (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) Or, at least, it should. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. your IAC is at zero. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. Holley Sniper Iac Delete If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. I did change the -40 thing also. any ideas? The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). That will at least tell you something. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? Um, no. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. Hang in there--you can do it. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working.